I originally setup the “aKiwiRetrospective” site in 2008 as a means of introducing fellow photographers to some of the cool things about being in New Zealand and to share my thoughts on the then current line of Fuji EXR bridgecameras.

It was also a good way to meet photographers from around the globe.

It was apparent very shortly after this that there really wasn’t a great deal of useful information available for the new breed of Fuji bridge cameras, so I started to incorporate what I had learned from my Wedding  & 35mm SLR photography days and assembling useful information to help other users. Since then the “kiwi” has taken on a life of its own.

One of the major factors that we soon became aware of was just  how expensive this hobby could be and that a good many folks didnt or dont have the means to go for “Top Shelf”equipment. Therefore our focus became more about what was affordable and how much could you do with “affordable ” gear?  And thats where we are today, using equipment thats certainly less the bleeding edge but still able to give the user an excellent result for very little outlay.

Hopefully you will find something of interest here for you.

To contact us : ralphm02@gmail.com

8 thoughts on “About

  1. Dear Kiwi:
    I find this the most helpful forum for me. Thank you for all the tips.
    The user’s manual for the hs20 is useless. Tells me what the camera controls do but nothing about how to use them in actually taking pictures



  2. I am from South Africa and bought a HS20 in 2011 and loved the camera from the beginning.
    However, I always wished that I could come across more info on the camera, and not photography as such. AND THIS IS IT!!! I picked up a link from Facebook and can’t stop reading.
    Thanx a miilion!!!


    1. Cheers Willem.
      I glad the blog is of some use.
      As it looks like the HS50 isn’t going to be officially released here in New Zealand I will be staying with the HS20 for now.
      I’m still not convinced the HS50 is going to be worth the money, and as I don’t like buying from off shore ( warranty issues ) I’m going to have to wait to see what Fuji do decide to release or possibly look at getting an XS1.


  3. Hi Ralph, I know the info you have on your site for the HS20 is a bit old now but many thanks. I just came across it and found your setup (part 2) suggestions very helpful, have not found part 12 yet :-).

    I have owned the camera for a number of years but was never happy with the results. I have just dusted off the camera and set it up as your comments suggested and I will be taking it away with us for our camping trip next week.

    One question though? Why Image size = Medium 4:3 @ 8 mega pixels? Why not large 16:9 @ 16 mega pixels? I thought the higher the mega pixels the better the image would be.

    Regards, Shayne


    1. Hi Shayne,
      Thanks for the feedback, when I transferred the site it seems some things got lost in the change.
      I’ve reset the Indexes so the part I think you were referring to is now labeled HS20EXR Pt3 in the review section.
      It now lists Parts 1 thru 10 and should give a bit more sense to things.

      Now to your question — not a simple answer I’m afraid.

      If you use 16:9 @ 16mp you dont get the advantage of the Dynamic range thats available in DR mode. Essentially the sensor in DR mode acts like an 8mp sensor ( it uses two pixels to create a larger more sensitive single pixel as you would get in an 8 mp camera ), which gives you a much larger dynamic range. Meaning that highlights and detail in deep shadow is more realistically rendered and then processed by the EXR software on-board. In the 16 mp EXR range the emphasis is focused on the maximum resolution available to you from the lens/sensor combination.
      Note in any camera more pixels means smaller pixels no matter the size of the sensor.

      When you choose 4:3 @ 8mp IN EXR DR mode you get the full value of the Dynamic Range which is expandable up to 1600% (default is Auto ISO 400 )for you on those very bright and contrasty days, thus allowing you to maintain highlights and darker regions in your image will retain detail as well.There is a very slight loss of resolution when using EXR DR, which is why when I’m doing macro work I shoot in EXR HR mode. This is also my preferred mode

      EXR HR- 16:9

      In this mode the camera is working at 16Mp but is cropping the image to 16:9. This gives you the full resolution of the sensor but the top and bottom part of the image is cropped away whilst the width stays the same. That means that it doesn’t crop and enlarge the image after processing. ( which is normally what happens when you crop in post processing.) You are also restricted to the dynamic range being restricted to 100% only in EXR HR modes and this isn’t changeable.

      Now to make things even more confusing in P mode you get a bit of both. If you want resolution with extra highlight / shadow control you can use say 16:9/Fine and get the dynamic range expandable by doing the following.
      ISO 100 DR 100% only
      ISO 200 DR 200 becomes available
      ISO 400 DR 400% becomes available.
      Auto ISO 400 will give you all three DR modes but the camera decides the ISO.

      Now if you want to use the camera in P Mode – M 4:3/fine you will automatically get the 3 available DR modes available no matter what ISO you.
      What you dont get in P mode is the EXR processing thats available to you in the EXR modes or the expanded DR and lowlight settings.
      You do get the benefit of the 8mp DR range if using medium file sizes.

      What all this means is there is a great deal of flexibility.
      A lot of users have said that for general shooting P mode large/Fine image settings with AUTO ISO 400 seems to work well in most situations.

      Now that you are totally confused have fun and experiment till you find the mode that most suits your needs.



  4. Well I’m not a photographer but I found something really interesting!!!… That’s inspiring
    Thank you !!!


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