Following on from the B & W edits from the Canon are the colour images. In general I think the colour isn’t too bad. These were all edited from the RAW files. I’ve never been a fan of Canon colour especially in their Jpeg output but the colour from the RAW file edits isn’t too bad.
While not in the same class as the colour imagery from Fuji cameras it isn’t the worst I’ve seen. Bearing in mind that the 1000d is a ten year old entry level DSLR I’m happy with these images. It is evident looking at the Fuji HS20 jpegs ( I dont shoot raw on this camera) that the jpegs have a definite colour and contrast punch thats not in the Canon files. More tellingly though was how much highlight loss the Fuji was showing even when being shot in EXR DR mode with Auto DR used. There’s considerably more highlight clipping in some images. Fortunately most can be cropped out at least partially.
Below are the edits I have done, in colour, from the Canon Raw files. I shot RAW+jpeg but in almost all cases I deleted the jpegs and processed the RAW images. As with Part.1 each image will take you to the full sized file.
This Easter Sunday saw us at theGlen Afton Lineopen day. This small Bush Railway is a great chance to view and ride on some of the less well known work horses of yesteryear. There are several Heritage Rail clubs and societies dotted around New Zealand and most offer an interesting day out.
I will be going back in winter to get more images as there was simply too much to see and too many people for us to contend with this day.
We took four cameras with us, the Canon 1000d, Pentax MZ-6, Fujifilm HS20 EXR, and the good old Samsung S6. The film images will be a couple of weeks away as I haven’t finished the roll of film in the camera, 22 images taken on the day but theres another 14 to use yet.
All the digital cameras did well, the DSLR moreso but the HS20 was still up to the challenge and I got some images I wasn’t expecting from the HS20.
I have edited the first batch of images and these are from the Canon and are a mixture of black and white edits and colour. In some cases the same image was edited both B&W and colour primarily because they lent themselves to such treatment.
As always click each of the thumbnails for a full resolution image. Use F11 in your browser to go full-screen. Some of the images look the same but are either different focal lengths or different edits of the same image. Part 2 will contain the Canon colour images.
The new (to me) Canon EF-S 55-250 IS ii arrived in the post today fortunately all in one piece.
It was advertised as lightly used and in mint condition. I can report thats exactly what it was. I had the opportunity to have a small play with it. Right from the outset it showed promise and it quickly became evident that this was going to be a nice addition to the equipment list. The photographic shelves are looking a little better stocked as of today.
It would be nice to see the Fuji XE3 on the shelf but thats a ways off at the moment. Back to the new lens. It does have a tendency to hunt, but I’ve found that it seems to perform best using the centre AF point rather than using the auto multi point for AF. Coupled with the metering set to evaluative this seems to work best.
I was then presented with one of the toughest task you can get, namely photographing a Fantail. These native birds never sit still for more than a couple of seconds. Even when you think they are still, snapping off a few images will prove that to be not the case, they are almost constantly on the move. This is a tough ask for this lens as it really needs an f2.0 lens or better to really get these little birds crisply in focus. Fast glass equals faster shutter speeds and higher ISO.
I’m also noticing that the 1000d’s sensor really isn’t as crisp as some of it heirs when pushed hard. I’m finding that is many cases the 1000d has plenty of detail but the output is similar to a high quality 35 mm SLR. Perhaps a 1200d body or similar may well be the next shelf item.
However I did mange a few that I will deem keepers for now until I get better at using this lens and finding the various sweet spots it has.
So far it looks like its money well spent and I’m pleased it turned up today as it will be going with us tomorrow on the photo expedition.
I have never been overly fond of camera straps, most of the neck straps included with your camera are not particularly comfortable and I hate having a one to two kilo brick hanging around my neck, its just plain uncomfortable. Nor do I like wrist straps for the same reason.
My preference is for a hand strap often called a hand grip,which it is not. A hand grip is part of the camera body or an additional piece put on the body to make it easier to hold.
However marketers seem to inevitably label these hand straps as hand grips, therefore if you are looking for one online you need to search both types. There are many varieties of straps and harness gear for photography so theres plenty to choose from.
Theres a number to choose from at varying prices, your local camera shop will also have some available as well but I have found these to be generally expensive for what they are and often all you are really paying for is brand name. Shop online for better results.
$6.50 on TradMe
$24.95 on TradeMe
Currently $46.76 on TradeMe
Click the images above for a larger view. All the current prices are shown at the bottom of the images.
Even the $6.50 version looks reasonably substantial, but at that price it is likely to be made of inferior products compared with the more expensive leather based options. However you have to pay more for the leather versions. Note prices dont include freight if buying online.
For large DSLR’s all of these items would be good to have, however I’m not sure that the bulkiness of some of the hand straps would be something I would enjoy using, and getting it on and off could be problematic, although the surety of keeping the camera in hand with the additional thumb strap could well be worth it.
Make your own straps.
If like me you have a bunch of old camera straps around, now’s the time to make your own. I have half a dozen surplus straps from various cameras, the best of which are the two below.
The Fuji strap is 30 mm in width and the Canon is 40 mm in width. Both are a woven strap laminated to a leatherette backing making for a very durable strap. I decided on the Canon strap which I think gives a better fit and feel.
From the following images you will see that I used the existing eyelet straps for the top connection point while cutting the strap to the required length and punching a hole sufficient to tightly press the D-ring screw through the strap and attaching it to the tripod mount point. I used a flat washer slightly larger in diameter the the head of the D-ring screw to add extra lock-down grip to the strap at the bottom mounting point.
If you are wondering about the use of D-ring screws, its simply a matter of ease of use. Rather than have to carry a screwdriver with me, the D-ring screw is easy to remove if I want to use a tripod mount, and saves me from having to completely remove the strap from the camera. On the larger DSLR one could incorporate a small carabina clip on the top connection for fast and complete removal of the strap. Total cost for the two camera straps is $7.50 and that was for the two D-ring screws plus the freight, which works out at $3.75 for the strap. Thats New Zealand dollars of course.
Pictured below is my EOS 1000d and my Pentax MZ-6, both now sporting the hand straps I made this morning. Pentax users may want to look away 🙂
I will endeavour to find a good Pentax strap at a later time.
Click on the thumbnails for a larger view.
Both these cameras are going to be used quite extensively tomorrow on a photo expedition, therefore I will be able to report just how well they do their job.