I seldom if ever get a cold and up till the end of last month this remained true.
Unfortunately 2 weeks ago I happened to be working on a clients house who had the nastiest cold virus I have ever encountered. I’ve had the flu ( genuine article) in the past and while this didn’t put me in bed for a week it did all but incapacitate me for four days. To make matters worse I had to work as well and that didn’t help.
After starting to feel better on day four my wife started to come down with the virus as well as my daughter and daughter in law. My son moved home to finish his studies at a local poly-tech and his good lady has been incapacitated since last Friday.
Unfortunately my wife still smokes ( only 2 or 3 a day now) but the virus has affected her so badly that she is showing signs of bronchitis and we are off to the doctor today.
Needless to say that not a lot has happened here at the blog for a while, and to make matters worse I’m starting a new job this week and we still don’t have the house reorganised for the extra people here now. So make sure if you have the flu virus vaccine available in your health system you get them. While this wasn’t a full blown flu attack its a very good reminder of why you should get the vaccine shot regardless of your current health status.
On a brighter note, over the coming weeks I will be doing a review of the iPad, iPad2 as well as one of the current Samsung smartphones to see how they compare photographically to your HS20 or other Fuji cameras.
Some of the functionality , features and resolution of the iPad has certainly made me want to take a second look at these pieces of technology.
Although it may not be evident approximately 1/3 of the content has now been shifted here to our new home. On the Main index page all entries under the cameras heading are now done.
All topics under the HS20 are now done. The HS10 & HS20 review sections will be next.
Fuji HS30 & X series are also done.
Camera accessories is done as well.
As well as the two sections mentioned above everything from image series down is still to be transported. At this point I have approx 45% of the old site transferred here. As always all new posts will continue to be posted here at the new site.
Recently I posted that I had received some Macro Lens Filters courtesy of my daughter when she came back from the UK. I had originally seen these referred to from a forum member at MyFinePix Forums, and I was impressed with the results that he had posted. As I’m a fan of Macro Photography, both mine and other folks as well I ordered some from E-Bay UK, and had then posted to my daughter who was a at Lancaster University at the time, finishing off part of her degree. Macro photography has long been a strength of the Fuji Bridge/super-zoom cameras, and with the advent of the manual zoom/focus lens that many of the better Fuji bridge cameras sport, it makes for some very interesting imagery.
For the first set of images I had the camera set to EXR DR, @3:2 (7mp), Auto ISO 400 and Auto DR 400%. Depending upon angle of light and amount of zoom Ev was adjusted accordingly to ensure proper light levels. This would also require changing the metering to suit.
Other settings used were Velvia for color, noise reduction set to low and sharpness set to low. Ordinarily on a brightly lit subject I would leave sharpness set to hard, but as we are introducing extra lens elements into the system I wanted to get the most from Post Processing for sharpness.
The 7 Mp setting was a brain-fart as I didn’t check the settings initially. All other images are shot in EXR HR @ 16Mp. This is the reason for changing the sharpness setting. I also used ISO100 as well, and while this limits the amount of DR% range it does allow me latitude in the post processing. If I was shooting this sequence in RAW, there would be no changes in settings other than the RAW itself.
I find that the HS20 shot in 4:3 mode at 16Mp with the settings I’ve listed here gives a Jpeg that’s very similar in nature and look to the RAW output of the HS20. The HS10 & HS30 will differ somewhat from these settings given the different sensors and their inherent sensitivities.
So what sort of outcome was achieved? The results were interesting to say the least. All these images were handheld with the Image stabilisation set to full. Normally I have I.S. set to shooting only, but given the large magnification factor I opted for full settings here. To start with we have a standard 24mm wide angle of a leaf from a plant growing by the back door. Interestingly the camera missed focus, as it was set to average for the shot.
That’s the first thing to remember, metering! The focus area when set in average is quite large (approx 1/3 of the image area). Spot is a much better option for this type of work as it narrows the area for the AF to work with considerably.
Click on the images for a full resolution image. Be warned though that they are large and may take a few seconds to load.
Next up is a standard Macro shot taken from approx 9 inches (229mm) distance from the subject. At this point you cant really see the subject, although I could when the sun was in the right spot in relation to where I was sitting. The subject is tiny.
Next up is a standard supermacro both a before & after post processing version.
Its at this point that a few things become evident rather quickly after viewing the +10 images. In the supermacro image, at ISO400 and after post processing the image is good. No real eveidence of chromatic abberation shows up (think purple fringing), but the noise level and slight granulation of the image isnt that good. Resolution isnt too bad but an image of this size wont necessarily standup to large print sizes.
With the images of the +10 filter it clearly evident that chromatic abberation is an issue and is evidenced very clearly in the processed image. Resolution isn’t terribly great at this point and depth of field is quite shallow. At first glance you may wonder why you would bother with this type of Macro Filter. A lot of the image quality problems associated with these images arent in fact due to the filter, but the fact that the camera is choosing too high an ISO, isn’t producing good resolution and image quality is suffering. Setting the camera to 8Mp in Dr had little or no effect. This is one of the clearest indicators I’ve seen to date that show how much resolution is lost when using EXR DR.
At this point you may be wondering what I mean in regard to resolution, but thats precisely what HR mode is all about. EXR HR is the mode you use when you want to record every possible detail the sensor is capable of for a given set of settings. It goes without saying that the HS20 is best at ISO100, and thats where things change considerably, and will be the focus of the next part of this article.
Oh and the target subject hasn’t yet been resolved in these images. One thing however that will be instantly clear to the sharp eyed among us is just how good these filters are at creating really nice Bokeh. By comparison the backgrounds in the standard macros were very busy. This can be improved by altering zoom and distance from the camera to your subject.
In the next part of this article I will repeat the process but with optimal settings.
You may experience a error in the latest version of Chrome. When mousing over the menus you sometimes can’t access the sub-menus. This appears to be a chrome only fault as I have tested IE9, Firefox & Opera and the error doesn’t occur. The latest version of Chrome is 20.0.1132.57 m
I have asked tech support to investigate and will post any results here. Should you experience this intermittent fault please let me know and include the browser version of Chrome you were using.